Authenticity

"Do you think my/this bag is real?" 

The greatest fear of any shopper getting an item not from store. 

The other question I get often is " Do you think this looks real enough?" 

Sometimes I even get statements like " There's no way to tell, I don't believe you." 

Thankfully, there is. One just has to take enough time and effort to look at the bags and you'll realize that the doppelgänger really doesn't cut it. 

The really excellent replicas however, will fool many a hermes lover and even some collectors. With replicas getting better and better, authenticators have to be more shrewd and specialized. 

Thus when dealing directly with a seller, always bring along an experienced eye. Preferably get it authenticated. I personally hold Bababebi to higher esteem. However there will always be certain limitations as to what a photograph can convey. But hopefully with the above 2 pointers, it will save you from 70% of the replicas out there. 

Swan's spin on looking at bags

There are many articles on how to identify the structure or stitching of a non authentic hermes.

Stay tuned for my write up with another angle on the differences in the leathers used by Hermes and all the actual fashion houses stacked up against their doppelgänger .

Hermes leathers - with a focus on Togo and its close cousins

Often, when acquiring Hermes Coverted Non-exotic Birkins and Kellys the front runners for leather choice is Epsom and Togo ( this is based on my geographic location -Sunny Singapore ) 

It seems that most don't seem to have the appetite for alternative leather choices and more perhaps haven't seen as many or perhaps fear the unknown.

With a growing trend of Fun inspired hermes designs out there. Perhaps it's time we explore what these leathers really are. What they bring to the table and our lifestyles. (Ps. Hermes leather exhibition is currently at the art science museum at Marina bay sands. There are many leathers there for our eyes and hands to admire)

Below are textured leathers all in black and commonly found in both Kelly and Birkins. 

From top right : Fjord , Togo , Ardennes & Clemence.

Ardennes has not been available on the podium for slightly more then a decade. This is one of the most favored leathers in a Birkin. They remain stiff and stand up to wear very well. They also have the ability to bring vibrancy to colors that they are dyed in. Ardennes can be found in blue( blue saphir), red( rouge vif), green, black(noir), brown(maron), gold and natural. Ardennes has a flat texture and a sheen to it that adds depth to colors.

Fjord is a tough leather is large grains. They are usually reserved for bigger bag and men's bags. They are entirely water resistant, able to withstand an extreme amount and wear and holds it shape well.It doesn't come in many colors and the colors they are usually found in are usually more masculine. Rouge H ( comes out differently in fjord), dark blue, black, brown, green and gold. 

Togo and Clemence come in a variety of colors. Of the two Clemence is able to absorb and thus bring out colors better. If your bag is size 30 and below.. There is little difference between the stiffness of either leathers.

Hermes togo comes from 3 different tanneries in Europe. Each tannery has their own distinct formula and method of processing the leather . Togo from 1 particular tannery is matte and the other is shiny. The grains are slightly different too. So if your Togo Birkins differ and you are wondering why, herein is your answer. 

Have fun collecting... I will continue to work on this piece and amend errors accordingly. 

XOXO

Kelly Ghilles, Kelly Sellier , Kelly retourne

There is just something about smooth leathers that evoke a sense of class and luxury. 

These are some smooth Kellys in a nut shell. 

Black box vintage Kelly Sellier ( notice the single loop and straight edge)

Fauve Tadelakt Kelly Ghilles

Gold Swift Kelly Retourne 

These leathers have the ability to bring out colors otherwise lost on their texture counter parts.

Notice the Kelly with embellishments in the centre. She is a Kelly Ghilles. A premium Kelly finished usually in prem brass or bushed palladium.

Re- Introduced in 2012, Inspired by the Scottish Ghillie shoe and designed for Hermès by French Designer Pierre Hardy, this Kelly incorporates the typical design elements of the Ghillie shoe, such as the perforated leather trim. Details are also found on the bell of the clochette and a micro Carmen at the other end. 

These added details bring a certain finesse to the Kelly. With Hermes collectors divided on their views, the Ghilles is has fans as well as haters.  Available in Swift, tadelakt , Togo , croc with swift , ostrich ( my fav. Choice In a ghilles) 

There are limited edition pieces like the grand marriage that incorporates: croc,ostrich and lizard.

The Ghilles is usually found in Kelly 32 & 35 as well as Birkin 30 & 35

Controversy... Hallmarks on hardware

Buying a Hermes has always been an adventure, to say the least, be it at the boutique or from a reseller. I will not advise anyone to buy directly from the owner unless you really know them and what you should look out for. Receipts prove little.

In the last few month, certain incidences have happened that have really shocked me. I will reiterate the importance of having a 3rd party authenticity cert on all purchases.

Personally, I have a lot of faith in Bababebi's services. She has many established clientele including some big names. In addition to having a 3rd party authenticity certificate , I am not saying this to grow my coffers, but having an actual third party facilitating the sale allows you to benefit from the reseller's knowledge, this is a well worth insurance to prevent financial loss. 

Your reseller will be able to touch and feel the bag, subject the bag as well as the individual to a different type of scrutiny. Find a reputable reseller, that has a keen eye that you can trust, give him or her some quiet time with the bag...  

We rarely just have one Hermes, keeping an ongoing relationship with your reseller is beneficial to you and them. 

Recently, there has been a number of individuals that have claimed, just by looking at the hardware on a bag or the foil stamp or even missing stamps, they can make certain judgement calls. Spooking many others. I would like to highlight that the Fonts on the hardware as well as the foil size  have changed consistently throughout Hermes's history. The above pictures are of authentic Kelly bags, whose hardware is contrary to popular belief. 

Protective Bases for our bags

Recently, a friend asked me about various bag inserts and bases that she could use to protect her bag. Reminding me that I have yet to follow up on my previous article as promised. 

Here is one on bag bases. After all , not all bags can take an insert. Take the Lindy and Kelly for example. These bags are either too slim or flexible for and insert. 

Here is an inexpensive way to protect the base of your bag. All you need, is a large wrapping tissue ( you get those with any garment purchase ) and the cardboard base of any paper bag.... These items are all easily available and a great way to recycle, needless to say at no cost to our pockets. 

Below are some examples, basically any laminated cardboard sheet will do. 

Measure the base of your bag, an estimate is good enough... Precision is not important. Cut out the measurements on the laminated cardboard you selected. 

Keep in mind to round the edges so as not to perforate the bag. 

This cardboard piece is to ensure the tissue stays in place and absorb some "shock" 

Wrap the cardboard with the wrapping tissue, going round it a few times, tuck in the sides. Proceed to put it into your bag or clutch! 

Change the wrapping tissue every 6 months or whenever you feel it's dirty. Wrapping tissue also helps with moisture absorption ( so I have been told, will need to verify this claim) , ink, keys and a great contrasting background to look for things.

Do keep in mind that this does not protect the sides of your bag. 

Hope this article is useful.

Slouchy Birkin - Long Overdue post! (How to store your Birkin )

A few moons ago, when i told my friends and clients that I was bringing in a gorgeous Clemence Birkin .. They all went " No!"  

I wondered why and they elaborated "It's too soft! It's grains are too big!"

Some went on to tell me, Clemence is out of the consideration condemned like box calf in Asia. 

Needless to say, this erks me. My love for the alternative to popular leathers is no secret. 

Anyways, when they saw the Clemence, they were pleasantly surprised. At 10 years old, it was stiffer then some less then a year old Togo . They have seen my other Clemence pieces and are amazed at how fine and consistent the grain can be.. It's all about the storage and the individual leather piece.

Anyway, this is not a piece to cause a revolution. Instead, I want to help everyone keep their Birkins and Kellys in shape for decades to come.

Prevention is better then cure, although there is no Hermes that's beyond cure if you know the right Doctor. 

The main contributor to our bags losing shape, getting mold, stretching..etc is improper storage. I will do another piece on use and much later, on leathers that suit your personality and use.

Your Hermes SA will tell you their version of how to store your Birkin, a bag care specialist will tell you another story... You'll now hear my version and form a decision on what works best for you. Do take note that what applies to the climate here in Singapore might not apply to the climate in Australia or Europe. This I believe is the reason for our differences in advice.

If you are lucky enough to have your Hermes Box , open it and check for spots of yellow mold. If it's present, either throw the box away or leave it in the sun. 

Only the box!  Sun every inch of it over 3 days.. This should help kill the mold. Any tissue wraps in these yellowed boxes should be discarded and renewed.  If your box shows no signs of these spots you are safe and have just saved yourself a ton of work.

Dustbag - if your box was spotted, I would advise that you rinse your dustbag, in cold detergent and subsequently in detol , before a final rinse in clear water and Sun it till very dry. If box is pristine or never kept in box, check the areas around it, cabinet, shelf etc. If no sign of mold is present, there is no need to rinse your dust bag. You must keep your bag in some protective dustbag. One that breathes is best. 

Get a dehumidifier sachet or if you have many Hermes pieces, get a container of it and put it where you store your bags. These can be found at any reputable camera shop. Don't get those that turn into water. Those may do more harm then good. Change dehumidifier when crystals change color.

Put these into your box or into your bag( if you have no box), ensuring that the substance (crystal) never touches your bag. This prevents mold and excess moisture seeping into the leathers and expanding it. 

Going onto the bag proper , 

Store your Birkin or Kelly open. Do not close the top flap. This is easier in a Birkin but a little more challenging in the Kelly as the top flap will require some support. If you have the existing felt piece, use it to protect the metal hardware without folding it into the bag. Sometimes the felt interacts with the edging or piping of the bag, ripping it off. 

Stuffing

Loosen the tongues to your bag. Never store it locked on the turn key. Stuff the bag with wrapping tissue or bubble  wrap easily found in diaso or any hardware shop. Do not over stuff! It should just support the bag, not budge it in any way.

In the case of the Birkin, a piece is required for in between the handles. 

Bags should always be stored laying down. If in a box, ensure some wrapping tissue between box and dustbag. If outside, the option is to put a wrapping tissue or similar light material between dustbag and surface or bag and dustbag. This helps prevent transference of any color from area of storage onto the bag. 

Where you store your boxes and bags is another factor. Never too near a window where temperature fluctuates or rain could get it. Not too near the air-con as well. The lower you store your bag, the more moisture there will be. 

These storage tips are useful for those pieces that might be stored for 2 months or more straight. 

Clean your Hermes once a year. For exotics, once every 3 years. Don't know how, send it to Spa or a reputable bag cleaner.

If your bags are rarely used, you can prolong the above. Cleaning prevents staining, I would recommend cleaning it prior to any long storage ( long in my dictionary is 6 months) 

I hope these tips help