Swan's tell

There are many videos, articles and resources that can be found on the web to help shed some light on how to identify the genuine article.

I have put these photos here on a little known or published method that rings true most of the time. One the right of both sets of pics are high end replicas of the equivalent leather that hermes uses. There are very distinct differences. I have highlighted a clue in the lower picture.

Workmanship and finishing aside, the main element of the bag is the leather. Hermes sources their calf leathers from tanners in Europe whereas most replicas do not. This inadvertently affects the general shape , stiffness, weight and fine details that lend Hermes its finesse. 

There are replicas that procure their leathers from similar tanneries giving their items a closer resemblance to the real thing and I have personally seen such replicas. They still have their tells and generally these replicas costs upwards of a thousand dollars per bag. It's a hefty sum that unscrupulous sellers willingly fork out to dupe buyers to shelve out easily $20,000 for a brand new Birkin. 

Boxes, dust bags and receipts are now so well made and copied that I generally do not pay much heed to them. 

When looking at a bag, I pay attention to the leather and workmanship. I understand that each piece has taken a craftsman painstaking hours to complete. Every piece will have a very human element to it and sadly the newer pieces have less soul then the vintages. 

I look to where it's hardest and most time consuming for an ex-craftsmen to manipulate,mound and finish. 

Rarely will something escape my notice. However, I am only human as are the craftsman that accept bags to spa and sometimes an exception happens where a piece escapes our notice or we might jump to too early a judgement. There have even been cases where craftsmen differ in opinion as to authenticity.

Authenticating a bag is like authenticating art. Sometimes everything is right about a piece and that's what's wrong with it. 

I do not have any ill will to people who purchase and sell replicas or fun bags as long as they state that that is what it is. It saddens me each time I have doubts on a bag and have to tell that to a client with confirmation from Bababebi that my suspicions are true. 

I do not wish to elaborate on the tells of the leathers as I do not want to contribute to better replicas that are sold with the purpose of cheating others. 

Authenticity

"Do you think my/this bag is real?" 

The greatest fear of any shopper getting an item not from store. 

The other question I get often is " Do you think this looks real enough?" 

Sometimes I even get statements like " There's no way to tell, I don't believe you." 

Thankfully, there is. One just has to take enough time and effort to look at the bags and you'll realize that the doppelgänger really doesn't cut it. 

The really excellent replicas however, will fool many a hermes lover and even some collectors. With replicas getting better and better, authenticators have to be more shrewd and specialized. 

Thus when dealing directly with a seller, always bring along an experienced eye. Preferably get it authenticated. I personally hold Bababebi to higher esteem. However there will always be certain limitations as to what a photograph can convey. But hopefully with the above 2 pointers, it will save you from 70% of the replicas out there. 

Swan's spin on looking at bags

There are many articles on how to identify the structure or stitching of a non authentic hermes.

Stay tuned for my write up with another angle on the differences in the leathers used by Hermes and all the actual fashion houses stacked up against their doppelgänger .

Hermes leathers - with a focus on Togo and its close cousins

Often, when acquiring Hermes Coverted Non-exotic Birkins and Kellys the front runners for leather choice is Epsom and Togo ( this is based on my geographic location -Sunny Singapore ) 

It seems that most don't seem to have the appetite for alternative leather choices and more perhaps haven't seen as many or perhaps fear the unknown.

With a growing trend of Fun inspired hermes designs out there. Perhaps it's time we explore what these leathers really are. What they bring to the table and our lifestyles. (Ps. Hermes leather exhibition is currently at the art science museum at Marina bay sands. There are many leathers there for our eyes and hands to admire)

Below are textured leathers all in black and commonly found in both Kelly and Birkins. 

From top right : Fjord , Togo , Ardennes & Clemence.

Ardennes has not been available on the podium for slightly more then a decade. This is one of the most favored leathers in a Birkin. They remain stiff and stand up to wear very well. They also have the ability to bring vibrancy to colors that they are dyed in. Ardennes can be found in blue( blue saphir), red( rouge vif), green, black(noir), brown(maron), gold and natural. Ardennes has a flat texture and a sheen to it that adds depth to colors.

Fjord is a tough leather is large grains. They are usually reserved for bigger bag and men's bags. They are entirely water resistant, able to withstand an extreme amount and wear and holds it shape well.It doesn't come in many colors and the colors they are usually found in are usually more masculine. Rouge H ( comes out differently in fjord), dark blue, black, brown, green and gold. 

Togo and Clemence come in a variety of colors. Of the two Clemence is able to absorb and thus bring out colors better. If your bag is size 30 and below.. There is little difference between the stiffness of either leathers.

Hermes togo comes from 3 different tanneries in Europe. Each tannery has their own distinct formula and method of processing the leather . Togo from 1 particular tannery is matte and the other is shiny. The grains are slightly different too. So if your Togo Birkins differ and you are wondering why, herein is your answer. 

Have fun collecting... I will continue to work on this piece and amend errors accordingly. 

XOXO

Kelly Ghilles, Kelly Sellier , Kelly retourne

There is just something about smooth leathers that evoke a sense of class and luxury. 

These are some smooth Kellys in a nut shell. 

Black box vintage Kelly Sellier ( notice the single loop and straight edge)

Fauve Tadelakt Kelly Ghilles

Gold Swift Kelly Retourne 

These leathers have the ability to bring out colors otherwise lost on their texture counter parts.

Notice the Kelly with embellishments in the centre. She is a Kelly Ghilles. A premium Kelly finished usually in prem brass or bushed palladium.

Re- Introduced in 2012, Inspired by the Scottish Ghillie shoe and designed for Hermès by French Designer Pierre Hardy, this Kelly incorporates the typical design elements of the Ghillie shoe, such as the perforated leather trim. Details are also found on the bell of the clochette and a micro Carmen at the other end. 

These added details bring a certain finesse to the Kelly. With Hermes collectors divided on their views, the Ghilles is has fans as well as haters.  Available in Swift, tadelakt , Togo , croc with swift , ostrich ( my fav. Choice In a ghilles) 

There are limited edition pieces like the grand marriage that incorporates: croc,ostrich and lizard.

The Ghilles is usually found in Kelly 32 & 35 as well as Birkin 30 & 35

Controversy... Hallmarks on hardware

Buying a Hermes has always been an adventure, to say the least, be it at the boutique or from a reseller. I will not advise anyone to buy directly from the owner unless you really know them and what you should look out for. Receipts prove little.

In the last few month, certain incidences have happened that have really shocked me. I will reiterate the importance of having a 3rd party authenticity cert on all purchases.

Personally, I have a lot of faith in Bababebi's services. She has many established clientele including some big names. In addition to having a 3rd party authenticity certificate , I am not saying this to grow my coffers, but having an actual third party facilitating the sale allows you to benefit from the reseller's knowledge, this is a well worth insurance to prevent financial loss. 

Your reseller will be able to touch and feel the bag, subject the bag as well as the individual to a different type of scrutiny. Find a reputable reseller, that has a keen eye that you can trust, give him or her some quiet time with the bag...  

We rarely just have one Hermes, keeping an ongoing relationship with your reseller is beneficial to you and them. 

Recently, there has been a number of individuals that have claimed, just by looking at the hardware on a bag or the foil stamp or even missing stamps, they can make certain judgement calls. Spooking many others. I would like to highlight that the Fonts on the hardware as well as the foil size  have changed consistently throughout Hermes's history. The above pictures are of authentic Kelly bags, whose hardware is contrary to popular belief. 

Protective Bases for our bags

Recently, a friend asked me about various bag inserts and bases that she could use to protect her bag. Reminding me that I have yet to follow up on my previous article as promised. 

Here is one on bag bases. After all , not all bags can take an insert. Take the Lindy and Kelly for example. These bags are either too slim or flexible for and insert. 

Here is an inexpensive way to protect the base of your bag. All you need, is a large wrapping tissue ( you get those with any garment purchase ) and the cardboard base of any paper bag.... These items are all easily available and a great way to recycle, needless to say at no cost to our pockets. 

Below are some examples, basically any laminated cardboard sheet will do. 

Measure the base of your bag, an estimate is good enough... Precision is not important. Cut out the measurements on the laminated cardboard you selected. 

Keep in mind to round the edges so as not to perforate the bag. 

This cardboard piece is to ensure the tissue stays in place and absorb some "shock" 

Wrap the cardboard with the wrapping tissue, going round it a few times, tuck in the sides. Proceed to put it into your bag or clutch! 

Change the wrapping tissue every 6 months or whenever you feel it's dirty. Wrapping tissue also helps with moisture absorption ( so I have been told, will need to verify this claim) , ink, keys and a great contrasting background to look for things.

Do keep in mind that this does not protect the sides of your bag. 

Hope this article is useful.